Installation of True-Fire Ignition Box

I purchased the True-Fire ignition box for our 1925 Touring Car a little over a year ago. The system consisted of the box, magnetic armature (mounts on the camshaft), magnetic pick-up (mounts inside the timer housing), nut and lock-washer, key-way positioner for the armature, 4 brass screws with washers and nuts and the ground wire.

The older cast iron timer housing I have is cast with beveled (counter-sunk) ports at each of the four wire locations, 90 degrees apart. The insulators were gone or had been filled with silicone, all of which were decayed or rotten. The True-Fire kit did not come with insulators for the timer housing wires. I found that these insulators can be purchased, but only if you buy an entire wire loom for the timer to the coil box.

I did not need all of these items. So I purchased $2 worth of beveled (cone-shaped) faucet washers. The N-1/4 size fit the timer perfectly and they are hard enough that you can tighten the wire eyelets good and snug so they will not vibrate loose, and there is enough clearance to prevent arching.

The original 1925 timer was phenolic resin. The wires mounted flush on the front of the timer. The old cast iron timer has the wire mounts on the side of the timer. This old style timer is required for the True-Fire. When changing to this old style timer, it is important to make sure you route the wiring around the timer clock-wise and to the bottom of the timer, then over to the chassis frame where the wire harness can be secured.

The top wire of the timer can be routed over the top of the timer, counter-clock-wise, and to the frame location. This will assure the timer-to-coil wiring will not come in contact with the cooling fan belt and cause you grief by ripping the wire loom apart. The wires are still quite close to the fan belt, but proper mounting will safeguard the wires from this occurrence.

Contributed by Don Warner - February 2008

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